Land at Paro and settle in. In the afternoon, the National Museum in the old watchtower of Ta Dzong, and the walk down to Rinpung Dzong, the fortress of the heap of jewels, with its painted galleries.

The climb to Taktshang, the Tiger’s Nest, 900 m above the valley floor, is a good first test for the legs before the trail. In the afternoon, Drukgyel Dzong beneath Chomolhari, and Kyichu Lhakhang, one of the oldest temples in the kingdom.

The longest day. From Damchena the path climbs past Jele Dzong at 3,450 m, with the Paro valley below and Chomolhari to the north on a clear day, then follows the ridge through alpine forest and rhododendron to camp at Jangchulakha, 3,780 m, near the herders’ summer pastures.

A shorter day along the ridge, with Jichu Drake in view on a clear day, to camp beside Jimilang Tsho at 3,880 m, a lake known for its giant trout.

Through dwarf rhododendron past the lake of Janye Tsho and the herders’ camps, then over rocky ground by Simkotra Tsho to camp at Labana, 4,130 m.

A short climb to the Labana pass at 4,210 m, the high point of the trek, with Gangkhar Puensum and Kanchenjunga on the horizon and the whole Thimphu valley below. Visit the monastery at Phajoding, then descend through blue pine to Thimphu and the weekend market.

Begin at Buddha Dordenma, the great seated Buddha above the valley, then walk the Buddha Nature Trail through pine and prayer flags to Changangkha Lhakhang. The afternoon takes in the traditional paper makers and Tashichho Dzong at dusk.

Cross the Dochula pass at 3,080 m among its 108 chortens, pass through Wangdue Phodrang, and climb through oak and rhododendron to the wide, open valley of Phobjikha. Walk up to Gangtey Goemba on its hill before dark.

Walk the Gangtey nature trail down through meadows and forest to the valley floor, winter home of the black-necked cranes from November to March. In the afternoon, a longer walk by Kilkhorthang village to Tangjey Lhakhang, and back over a wooden bridge.

Drive down to Punakha. Walk through rice fields to Chimi Lhakhang, the temple of fertility, then on to Punakha Dzong, the old capital, where the Mo Chhu and Po Chhu meet.

Walk through fields of chilli and rice along the Mo Chhu to Khamsum Yulley Namgyal Chorten, then visit the nunnery of Sangchhen Dorji Lhuendrup, set on a ridge above the valley.

The drive back west, with a stop at Simtokha Dzong, among the oldest fortresses in the country. The afternoon in Paro is yours.

Breakfast, farewells and the short drive to Paro airport. You leave the valley the way you came, through the mountains.