Land at Paro and settle in at 2,200 m. Your guide takes you through the route, the camps and your kit over dinner.

The climb to Taktshang is the first day of acclimatisation, and a quiet way to begin a long walk. A last night in a lodge.

From the ruins of Drukgyel Dzong, walk gently upstream through farmland and pine to the first camp at Shana, around 2,850 m.

A long day in the forest as the valley narrows, crossing and recrossing the river. Camp at Thangthangkha, 3,610 m.

The trees give way to yak pasture and stone herders’ houses. Camp at Jangothang, 4,080 m, beneath the east face of the mountain.

Walk higher towards the Tshophu lakes or the glacier for acclimatisation, and return to camp for an afternoon in the mountain’s company.

Climb to the Nyile La at 4,870 m, with Chomolhari and Jichu Drake behind you, then descend into the Lingzhi valley below its hilltop dzong.

A short day past Lingzhi Dzong to the village of Chebisa, set beneath a tall waterfall. Time to visit a farmhouse and rest the legs.

Climb through blue-sheep country to the Gobu La at about 4,410 m, then descend to camp by a river at Shomuthang.

Cross the Jare La at about 4,750 m and drop to a high meadow at Robluthang, where takin are sometimes seen.

The hardest and highest day. A long climb to the Sinche La at about 5,000 m, with Gangchhenta ahead, then a steep descent to camp at Limithang.

A gentle walk down through forest into Laya, a highland village at 3,850 m where women wear conical bamboo hats and life follows the yak.

A rest day spent with the people of Laya. Walk between houses, share butter tea, and see how a village lives this far from the road.

Descend along the Mo Chhu through forest and over the Bari La to a quiet camp at Koina.

The last day on foot, past Gasa Dzong to the hot springs below the village. A long soak after two weeks on the trail.

Drive down to the warm Punakha valley. Visit Punakha Dzong at the meeting of two rivers, and a farewell dinner with your crew.

Cross the Dochula Pass once more on the way to Paro airport, with the northern peaks on the horizon behind you.