Land at Paro and settle into the valley at 2,200 m. Your guide takes you through the route and your kit. The afternoon is for a short walk and an early night.

The climb to Taktshang is the first test for the legs and lungs, and a quiet way to begin. Return to Paro for a final night in a lodge before the trail.

Drive to the ruins of Drukgyel Dzong where the road ends. The walk follows the Paro Chhu gently upstream through farmland and pine to the first camp at Shana, around 2,850 m.

A long day in the forest, crossing the river several times as the valley narrows. Camp at Thangthangkha, 3,610 m, where Chomolhari may show itself at the head of the valley.

The trees fall away and the valley opens into yak pasture. Pass the army post and the stone houses of the herders to reach Jangothang at 4,080 m, camped beneath the east face of the mountain.

A rest day that is not quite rest. Walk up towards the Tshophu lakes or the base of the glacier for the altitude, and return for an afternoon with the mountain.

The highest day so far. Climb steadily to the Nyile La at 4,870 m, with Chomolhari and Jichu Drake behind you, then descend into the Lingzhi valley below its hilltop dzong.

Cross the Yale La at about 4,950 m, the high point of the journey, and descend to Shodu at the head of the Thimphu Chhu, where meditation caves sit in the cliffs above camp.

Follow the river down into rhododendron and fir. Camp near the ruins of Barshong Dzong, noticeably warmer and lower than the nights before.

A final descent through forest to Dodina, where the vehicle waits. Drive into Thimphu for a hot shower, a proper bed and a farewell dinner with your crew.

The drive back to Paro airport along the river. You leave with the mountain behind you, and some of its quiet with you.