Land at Paro and drive along the river to Thimphu, stopping at Chuzom, where the Paro and Thimphu rivers meet beneath three styles of stupa. The evening is for the main street and the craft bazaar.

Begin at Buddha Dordenma, the great seated Buddha above the valley, then walk the Buddha Nature Trail through pine and prayer flags to Changangkha Lhakhang. The afternoon takes in the traditional paper makers and Tashichho Dzong at dusk.

A 45 km drive to Genekha village at 2,800 m, where the trail drops to the river and then climbs through terraced fields and conifer forest to a great rock platform above the valley. Camp at Gur among yak pastures, at 3,290 m.

Climb through birch, rhododendron and meadow to the cairns of the Pagalabtsa pass at 4,250 m, where Kanchenjunga and the peaks of Bhutan come into view. Descend into the Labatama valley past herders’ huts to camp beside Utsho lake at 4,300 m, known for its golden trout.

A rest day that still walks: up to Sertsho lake, over a small ridge and down to Jagetsho, then back to camp. Good for the altitude, and for the light on the water.

Climb along Dala Tsho to a saddle at 4,520 m. On a clear day the skyline runs from Everest and Kanchenjunga to Chomolhari, Jichu Drake and Gangkhar Puensum. Descend past herders’ huts to the Docha Chhu and camp at Panka, 4,000 m.

An early start over a run of passes, the last the Tale La at 4,180 m, then a long descent to Talakha monastery and through apple orchards to the road at Chamgang, 2,640 m. Blue poppies flower here in June and July. Drive on to Paro.

The walk to Taktshang, the Tiger’s Nest, which clings to a cliff 900 m above the valley where Guru Rinpoche is said to have arrived on the back of a tigress. In the afternoon, the ruins of Drukgyel Dzong beneath Chomolhari, and Kyichu Lhakhang, one of the oldest temples in the kingdom.

Breakfast, farewells and the short drive to Paro airport. You leave the valley the way you came, through the mountains.